Reverse Fold Plackets!

2T oxford shirt with reverse fold placket

I mentioned yesterday that I LOVE reverse fold plackets! I love the way the raw edges are tucked away so nicely and that it looks like you took hours making it perfect when in fact it takes only six steps.

Step One:

It's important to make sure you have notches for your placket at both the neckline and at the hem. This way you know your placket is even. Your notches should be the same distance apart. The center front of the garment (CF) will be centered between the two notches. If you are drafting the pattern your self add 1/2"after the second notch (one closest to the shoulder) to accommodate the reverse fold. Note: Girl's and women's plackets always button right over left, Boys and Men always button left over right.  

Step Two:

Add fusible interfacing to your front between the two notches on the wrong side of the fabric. It should measure the same size as your finished placket. In this sample's case it measures 1 1/4." It's good to use a medium to heavy weight fusible here. You'll want to have enough structure so the placket remains crisp and to reinforce the button holes.

Step Three:

Fold at the first notch and press towards the wrong side.

Then fold toward the wrong side at the next set of notches completely covering the fusible and your raw edge. Press flat. The crisper your fold the better, it will help you sew a straighter line in the next step.

Step Four:

Top stitch (1/4" from your folded edge), you could edge stitch (1/8" from folded edge) here but you run the risk of exposing your raw edges in the inside if you don't fold neatly. 

Step Five:

Open your placket and press flat with wrong side facing up. While you press hold the side seam taught to allow the placket to lay nicely.

LAST STEP:

Top stitch along outside edge. 

That's it! 6 easy steps to making a reverse fold placket. If your anything like me, you'll want to go put reverse fold plackets on every thing.